Nostra Vacanza: Tuscany and Umbria

Tom and Susan were able to make another visit to Italy during the last two weeks. We joined them for the second week after business meetings wrapped up, starting at their hotel in the old spa town of Fiuggi Terme, just southeast of Rome. They treated us to a nice lunch and afternoon in the Turkish baths and lovely pool. After this refreshment, the five of us headed on to Tuscany. Ben and I wanted to revisit Pienza in May to see it green, lush, and quite literally, “under the Tuscan sun.” The fields and meadows were bursting with wildflowers, and there was even a brand new calf at the farm – only one day old when we arrived on the 23rd, Susan’s birthday.

Casa Frati was a great place to stay once again, with our hostess Monica as kind and helpful as ever. We definitely recommend her family farm for any Tuscan farm vacations anyone may want to take. There are plenty of picturesque lanes to walk around. Ben flushed a large male pheasant in one of the grain fields on the property. Trying for a photo op, but the camera wasn’t quite ready and he settled for a last minute shot as the bird flew away.

We had a great time wandering around the little cobblestone streets of Pienza, stopping in a nice little leather shop, perusing the street art and piazzas, and dining at La Buca delle Fate for lunch. We ate there last time and were anxious to go again. Pienza was like a different town with the start of the summer tourist season already in full swing. In November, it was practically a ghost town, save for a few locals. This time we ran into several Americans, even some from our own naval command here in Naples. The world is definitely shrinking! We spent our last day at Casa Frati just taking walks in the countryside and relaxing with our books by the pool. It was too cool to go for a dip, but the scenery was unbeatable.

Leaving Pienza, we stopped in Montepulciano to see this famous medieval hill town synonymous with fine Italian red wines. We just walked around a bit then had lunch on a nice terrace overlooking the valleys below. Very nice and relaxing; perfect warm weather for a day of sightseeing and then driving on to our next destination of Umbertide, Umbria.

We crossed into Umbria from Tuscany and almost immediately saw a change in the topography: suddenly it looked like we were in the Blue Ridge Mountains, climbing higher and higher on very curvy roads. The route finally straightened out a bit as we neared Casale degli Olmi, our agriturismo in Umbertide. The restored farmhouse was beautiful and very well appointed. We had a nice view of Umbertide just in the distance and a nice pool and grounds. Though still pretty cool, Tom, Ben, and resident waterdog, Luke, all took a dip. Luke was very brave, managing to go down all the steps and tiptoe around in the shallow end. He really surprises us with how well he has taken to the water, not minding getting his face wet or being splashed. Guess he gets it from his daddy!

Using Umbertide as a home base, we made day trips to the medieval town of Montone, the pilgrimage sites of Assisi, and Perugia. Montone was very small and quiet, making for a great afternoon stroll with stops for gelato and a nice dinner outdoors at what might have been the only hotel-ristorante in town. Assisi was much bigger and more touristy than I expected, but still a lovely hill town studded with first-rate classical and religious art, architecture, and iconography. We all make the pilgrimage to the Basilica of St. Francis, walking through both the upper and lower churches and circumnavigating the subterranean tomb. It was a great experience seeing the beauty of the church and the piety of the believers who came through the space, including many of the friars and the sisters of St. Clare. Tom and Susan kept Luke so Ben and I could go through together and then we stayed with him (they got him to sleep!) while they toured the church. We capped off the afternoon with drinks and gelato in the piazza. Luke had an entire gelato to himself, along with all the sticky evidence to prove it. Nothing should part a hot toddler from his gelato!

We spent the next day in Perugia, and again Tom and Susan treated us to a babysitting break. Ben and I were able to go to the National Gallery of Umbria while they walked around the city and did some people watching from a street side café. The art collection featured painting and sculpture from the province, all organized in chronological order. This progression was very helpful as we watched the development of the religious art from period to period, beginning with pieces contemporary with St. Francis (mid 1200s) and moving up the 1700s. The majority of works were religious paintings, many made as altar pieces or as special commissions for churches and basilicas in the area. After reconnecting with Tom, Susan, and Luke, we did some shopping and stopped for prosecco before getting caught in a good rainstorm. We ended our trip to Perugia taking shelter in the street fair booths from the international sister cities markets; Perugia is sister city to Aix en Provence, Seattle, Grand Rapids, Potsdam, and others.

For our last day in Umbria, we stopped for a visit and lunch in Todi as we drove Tom and Susan back to Rome. Todi was yet another quaint medieval hilltop city, the steep stone streets and breathtaking views from nearly any direction into the valley. From there you could really appreciate Umbria’s claim as the Green Heart of Italy. Rolling hills look like mosaics of greens and earthtones, all under the soft focus of haze in settling in the valleys below. We stopped in a gallery that turned out to be the work of an expatriated Wisconsin native who has lived and worked in Todi for the past 30 years. Her restaurant recommendation resulted in one of the best meals we’ve had in Italy. The classic Umbrian specialties are simple but incredibly delicious. We sampled truffled filet of beef, grilled local trout, lentil and garbanzo soups, fresh boar sausages, and handmade red past with artichokes. The afternoon was cool and the smell of a wood fire on the dining terrace set the perfect mood for a long and wonderful lunch, our last meal all together before going our separate ways in Rome. We were sad for our trip to end, but we made plenty of good memories to last us until the next one.

In America: Part 2

Luke and I recently returned from a great and long overdue visit to the States. Unbelieveably, this trip was only the second time we've been back to the US since moving to Italy. Thanks to all our family and close friends for being understanding of how tough it's been to travel back and helping us make the most of the visits we've been able to make. Wish we could have seen more of you, but we'll make it up to you once we're back.

On this trip, we spent most of our time in Murphy but made it to LaGrange for a rare visit with Lauren, Tom, and Susan all in one place. I hadn't realized just how much Luke had grown and how much of his own personality is now showing through until I saw him through the eyes of loved ones back home. It's easy to be fooled by the slow and steady changes that unfold day by day, but I couldn't deny how big Luke now is looking at the awe, wonder, and the little bit of sadness as the grandparents and aunts realize how much has changed since they saw him last. But with that comes the fun of getting reacquainted and showing all the new things Luke can do, be it turning on the stereo so he can dance or ordering "toast" from the local lunch counter.

We were able to get to my home church twice in Murphy, and it was wonderful be able to bring Luke there, especially for Mother's Day. We spent time with the grand and great-grandparents, aunts, uncles, and cousins. Luke had fun learning the ropes from his older and wiser cousin Delaney and seeing a real little "baby" in his new cousin Morgan. Going home is always a mixed reaction of how much some things have changed and how much others have stayed exactly the same. We have a new little generation of children on the Allen side of the family, and I enjoyed seeing them finally be together all in one place.

Good dinners at Grandma Allen, Mamaw's and of course my Mama's house were a welcome treat. Luke ate all his meals with Papaw at his side, sneaking him sips of sweet tea now and then. Papaw even let him "drive" his race car, even though Luke's feet only reached the end of the seat. Nana kept him busy cooking in the kitchen, mixing up special dishs and sorting through her tupperware cabinet. Spending time with Michele and Galen was also great. Michele's job keeps her busy and always into something different everyday of the week. Galen made two stops through Murphy on the Nascar circuit to get in to some playtime with Luke. Uncle Morris showed Luke his cows and even now that we've come back to Italy, he still keeps saying "Moo?" They are a long way from here, but he'll see them all again soon.

It was cool and lush in the mountains and made the return to a balmy Italy all the more difficult. If Ben hadn't been back here, we may have been waylaid for a while longer. I know we are all looking forward to being back there in the fall, especially on our anniversary in October.

LaGrange was definately warmer but lovely, too, and just right for a the first swim of the season. Luke took to the water well, blowing a few bubbles with Lauren and kicking with Grandpa. Lauren came up from Tampa and Tom and Susan were there for a few days off between trips for work. We were unbelieveably lucky everyone could be off at the same time just before Mother's Day. The requisite pilgrimage to Charlie Joseph's lunch counter was our first stop in town for a cut up hot dog for Luke. We met Lauren there and then got to go back the next day to do it again the next day with the grandparents; no problem for me---I could eat there a couple times a week!

Back at the house, Luke made fast friends with Nelle, a gentle and very patient black lab. She did get her share of treats to make playing with Luke worth her while. He's nothing if not generous in sharing his snacks. Susan had Ben and Lauren's childhood toys ready and waiting for Luke: Breyer horses, Fisher-Price farms and houses, and even the John Deere peddle tractor. Luke loved rides on this, making laps around the kitchen and living room. We'll be back here, too, in the fall and many other places in between. Being so far away definately makes these visits to our hometowns all the sweeter and more nostalgic. Someday we'll probably feel the same way about Italy. All the more reason to make memories here while we can.

Ready for My Closeup

Luke had his picture taken at the portrait studio back in Murphy, and as you can see, he was definately ready for his closeup! He likes to pose and turn on the charm for the photographer. Enjoy the grins and look for more journals and photos from NC and GA in the coming days.